Fishing Equipment and Accessories Info-BOX

Ten steps to make a fishing float

Floats and How to make

Fishing Leashes and "catchability"

Antenna and Keel for Fishing Floats - How to make

Materials, shape, sensitivity and stability of Float

How to make a Sliding Float

How to Select the Fishing Baits - Lures

Fishing Lures and Colors

Fishing Lures and spinner fishing Tips

Devon and other fishing lures - How to make

Fishing Lures, Soft(Silicon) baits, Lucioperca & Pike fishing

Deadsticking Stickbaits - a few tricks, tournaments and news

Skinny Plastic lures - offer many options to find the fish from shore or boat

Fishing Hooks - Info, Details, Choice

Knots - How to Tie a Fishing Hook

New fishing hooks "Easy2Hook"

How-to-Select-the-Fishing-Hook, Right Hook for "Right" fish and tendency

Testing the Fishing hooks, "how to test"

Fishing line - Parameters, Breaking load, Strength ...

Fishing line - the Advantages and Disadvantages

Fishing line - Types

Fishing line - How To Select Fishing Line

PowerPro and top Mfrs of Fishing Line

Extras for anglers - In pursuit of the excellent, the downright extraordinary and the extravagant

Lure Reviews/Comments - Fishing Lures & Manufacturers, see and submitting comments

The Cult of Antique Fishing Lure Values

Antique Fishing Lure Values is somewhat of a mystery. Yes they are a hard good so to speak but just what are they worth. Bottom line is there are plenty of good guides out there for whatever type of antique fishing lure you may have but in reality, they are only worth what the market will pay for them. So the guides end up being just that, a guide.

Use them for what they are worth, to get an estimate on what your lure might bring based on surrounding factors like supply and demand. The shorter the supply, the higher typically someone will pay for it. All in all though, antique fishing lure values can fluctuate just like anything else.

Old Fishing Lures & Tackle By Carl F. Luckey - Identification and Value Guide, (8th Edition)

Make Fishing Lures
"How to make "

Fishing Equipment

Lures, Make your own hands



Have you ever wondered why some anglers put their feet on such a complicated and thorny path, as a separate handwritten manufacturer of artificial baits?

Perhaps because they spend less money? Or, perhaps, a home-made bait can be embedded into something that will suddenly fish "wild" unmotivated and hungry? Have you thought about this?

Regardless of what the true motives of a "pioneer", their purpose is quite justify the means, and the results of work will certainly bring satisfaction. Assortment of artificial baits, which are produced artisan, is extremely large - from Georgia to spinerbaits and other complex lures. Producing their own bait, anglers are demanding rigging satisfy their ambitions to acquire experience in design and manual skills.

As for me, then do an amateur production of lures me motivated during chronic bad luck, which I began the development of jig fishing with spinning. At that time I learned jig gear and catch on the head of one manufacturer, whose name is called I will not, because the quality of the hooks involved in these heads were nainizhayshim.

The hooks were so bad that bend at the slightest hitch and breaks on the most miserable fish. It may be that some anglers consider turmoil arising from the production of a single manufacturer trifle, but for me it was quite a sensible reason to do an independent production jig-heads.

Before we take up manufacture of baits, you need to articulate their problems and decide what you want to get as a result of their efforts. Consider all details in advance, you insure yourself against a lot of errors and shortcomings, which will surely occur if you previously did not reflect on its project to the smallest detail.

For example, in the above case the key to my "whip" hooks were low quality negates the authority of all jig lures, as a class. Mindful of the problems with the hooks, now I use only the highest quality hooks.

Recently, I opted for the hooks of the two manufacturers - Daiichi and XPoint. From my point of view of the hooks of these two manufacturers are the most durable and sharp among the jig hooks on the market of fishing tackle. In addition to excellent quality, these manufacturers a wide range of products - for example, Daiichi produces several types of jig hooks for its patented series of jig-heads «Bleeding Bait TM».

Choosing the hooks for its future products, remember that they may not come to your otlivochnoy form. Pay attention on what size hook designed a form in which you plan to make the casting.

Begin experiments in the field of creative design of spinning lures easiest way to select the optimum type of hook for this particular jig - head. Having the "right" equipment and a creative type of thinking you'll be able to develop their own exclusive previously unseen by anyone bait. You have a tremendous opportunity for the experiment, regardless of the level of complexity you devise a bait - from a simple heads up "big-eyed» Flippin 'Jig!

Very broad capabilities provide experiments with painting lures and applied colors. It is no secret that many anglers attach great importance to the color of the bait. Knowledge of the catchability of colors and color combinations that are relevant to any particular body of water can significantly increase the catch of the Supervisory fisherman, and if it is a fisherman-athletes and the competitions in fishing, then bring the victory points.

Once I have mastered in the first approximation, the independent production of jig-head, I began to try to make them more individual. Color solutions are applied in my heads, not accidental. They all thought out and consistent with my idea. In his work, I like to combine painting "skirt" jig lure with the color of most heads -for painting the lead head, I usually use dyes Powder Coat.

Another great way to amateur art on the grounds of self-construction of spinning lures - otlivochnyh manufacture of molds for jig-heads. We are not talking about the purchase forms, produced in an industrial environment, and on Improvised. Do not assume that just make a mold.

The form consists of two halves, and half of these must be weighed so that the voids are filled with molten lead, clearly coincided. If you do decide to take the case before you open up broad prospects - you can experiment endlessly over the form produced by your lead jig-heads. On the first occasion you can buy ready-made form in the nearest fishing store that sells similar products, and the house had to redo it, rastachivaya otlivochnye form, and if you really come up with something exclusive, then it makes sense to put their idea on the drawing board and book forms of professional technician.

In fact, if you decide to use ready-made forms, to determine with any manufacturer's products you will work. At the time, I opted for the most famous and venerable manufacturer of forms - the form of Do-It company.

Production Company( Do-It best demonstrates how the best can be value for money. These molds are probably the best out of all that on the market today. In addition to the forms in the range of the company can find almost everything you need for a jig-heads.

At least, I found everything I was looking for. I have purchased from dealers Do-It ladles, heat-resistant protective gloves, powder dyes for dyeing heads, many different forms for reflux jig-heads, as well as all sorts of other things without which dispense with the production of improvised jig-heads. As should be the manufacturers of quality products, all products are Do-It had been equipped with detailed instructions for use, explaining exactly how they should be working.

Came to the independent production of jig-head, I took the "secondary" lead, which got by melting of the goods that remained with me from past fishing experiences. Because the margin of lead quickly melted away, I was forced to replenish its acquisition of 20-pound "pig", which also went into action. Subsequently, I acquired a lead as a Do-It, which sold it in bars, called Do-It's Ingot.

These bars are made from refined lead, good melting and poured into molds. In addition to these there is another way of replenishment lead - at the city landfill, where you can find anything you want. Found it's best to melt lead and keep it in bullion. Be careful - to melt lead, should be in well ventilated areas.

Deserves a special discussion topic of the workplace. Try to organize everything the best way to nothing in the way and at the same time, all that is necessary, be readily accessible. Try and create kind of a small assembly line. This is to significantly reduce wasted time spent and materials.

Be sure to select "a place to cool» ("cooling area"). Here you will put already cast, but not cooled head for final cooling. Before pouring the molten lead, do not forget to warm up the form - the casting will be more smooth, without voids, lead will not splatter. Remember that, as with any profession, your new hobby will develop the method of trial and error. Do not be afraid to sin against the reality, if I say that messed up at least two dozen casts. However, if you still have the patience to master the process of casting, then everything will be smooth and regular. You will realize that nothing in this, in fact, prohibitively complex no.

When you created your hands on the bait you will catch their first fish, an incomparable sense of joy and pride overflow you. This was the case with me!

The first fish caught on bait, mounted on a homemade jig-head, was by no means as big, however, the pleasure of her capture was greater than that of the catch really big fish. The fish had been caught very prosaic. I cast jig the bait near the boat, a bit of playing it - and the bass was already here!

Every time you catch fish on a homemade bait, you have to remember that if the bait was bad, the fish had been caught would be, and therefore, it is thanks to your labors, this fish is now jumping on the bottom of your boat. Positive emotions are useful. I can say that I am currently caught hundreds of bass on homemade jig-head.

During entrainment independent designing and casting a jig-head, I reached a certain perfection, and could easily earn money on this if I wanted or found for this extra time. Repeatedly familiar anglers impressed with the quality of my products, I offered to sell them, but of course I was limited by the fact that gave them a pair of heads and telling me how you can join this interesting and fairly painless. Thus, after mastering the process of self-production jig-heads and equipped with the necessary tools, you can, at its option, either to provide a high quality heads in any desired amount, or establish a small firm to manufacture a jig-head, opening, thus, their own business.

save money or hobby:

Some Old But Lovely and unique article about "Making Lures,tackle and fishing Accessories as a hobby" By VIC McCRISTAL Fishing Guru



There is a trend among Australian amateur anglers towards making their own lures. To help these enthusiastic sportsmen, an ex- perienced OUTDOORS writer presents a guide to lures you can make at home that will best suit our conditions and Australian fish species.

Af first glance, anglers see two advantages to making their own lures. In the first place, you can save money. In the second, it is a fascinating hobby. But there's more to it than that. The prideful kick enjoyed by the sportsman who catches fish on lures which he not only made himself, but also designed himself is right out of the angling world. Finally, and not least, is the ultimate fact that many home makers make better lures than many established manufacturers.

In my travels around this country, at least part of my lure collection is always somewhere handy. It's been astounding to note the numbers of anglers who rub their chins thoughtfully, take a few measurements or color slides of my lures and go knock up a few of their own.

What's more, they catch fish on them. Just take a look at the average wobbling lure. A piece of plastic or metal, some stainless clips or a dipper, and one or two tripple hooks. Any home handyman with such elementary gear as a small vice, hand drill, files, plastic glue and paint can do it; either by studying a basic design or by using his experience to work out his own design. Although many anglers make their own lures, the majority go down to the sports store and buy them -and trots out up the creek and loses his lure first toss, on an unseen snag.

I guess the reason more sportsmen don't make their own is the high finish imparted to the commercial article. Anglers using unpainted lures, or lures painted very crudely, will catch as many or more fish as an angler using something that Dobell had sweated over for a month.

Anyone who has caught a respectable number of fish over the years will be familiar with the fate of lures. Some you lose first toss, others last for months or years and become respected favorites. Whether these are home made or commercial, the really successful lure after a decent working life becomes severely beaten up. Chewed, bashed, gnawed and tar- nished, it keeps on catching fish. Can those long-lost colors be so important? Every so often an amateur lure maker sends me some of his products. These lures I now class as the equal of anything similar in my collection. Where the amateur includes a couple of commonsense refinements placement of hooks, balance, or location of line pull, the result is usually fine. One of the sorriest things that has happened to anglers in this country is the imitation of reputable mikes of lure by competitors from Asia. From Temora, Atkins sent me up an apparently solid Japanese imitation of the Sonic, made by Heddons. Price, 5/9d against 16/- for the clinkum job. There's more to lures that imitation of shape, and "sound" lures depend at balance. If they're not weighted in front, they don't work. The Japanese product was a shell of plastic with no embedded frontal weight. The shell of plastic gave no grip to the chrome screws, which weren't even in line. Lures like these aren't cheap - they're really expensive. Some of these Asian imitation lures have even gone as far as developing a genuine wobble. However, a strike from a fish has left more than one angler with no more on the end of his line than a stainless screw, Understand me on this point -I have nothing against any imported lures, on principle, just so long as they work and give buyers a run for their money. All the lures this magazine has reviewed do exactly that. They work as they should, and are in the front line of quality equipment. Amateurs can't expect to imitate their wonderful finish; but we can in some cases improve their general design.

There is one general disadvantage common to all who make their own wobblers. The supply of suitablt material is limited. There is not enough demand for such items as small double hooks, long-shanked chrome screws or stainless steel bite and dippers. Plastic is another problem. Let's look at the methods used by a couple of successful amateurs.

Ian Glasson, of Royal Park, SA, uses sassafras or some suitable timber not given to cracking for his lure bodies. The lure bodies are hand turned 011 a wood lathe, but this is not essential. I think the Glassons turn out an unusually well-finished product. Where plastic can be obtained, it can be worked almost as easily as wood, but amateurs would do well to stick to solid plastic bodies at the outset instead of hollowing out half sections for floating lures. With hooks, Ian uses my favorite idea of reversed doubles. To obtain reversed doubles of the type used in Flopy lures proved impossible, but you can improvise by cutting one hook off ordinary triples. Because good doubles have a springing effect, they hold fish better than a worked-over triple.

Three simple types of spoons: The simplest is a spoon with a treble hook at one end and a swivel at the other (Fig. A). In this, the size of the hook is important for if the hooks are too small they will be shielded by the spoon and the lure will hook badly. The fly-spoon (Fig. B) is another simply made spoon-lure, ojten effective for perch or trout. The spoon is about 2 in long with a swivel and a long shanked hook, all united with a single split-ring. A similar but larger lure can be made using a treble-hook and two stoivels with a spoon about 1 in long (Fig. C).

Brass or stainless steel eyed screws are used as standard equipment. In a wooden-bodied lure, a short shanked screw is a real menace to the angler sincerely interested in decent fish, so eyelets which pull only on the end-grain of a wooden lure aren't very likely to hold. You overcome this by placing your eyelets across the grain of the wood, or attaching your line pull direct to the bib or dipper, instead of the body of the lure. Placing your eyelets in the lower part of the lure serves a dual purpose. The pull of a fish is unable to drag the eyelet from the wooden body, and the eyelet as well serves as a bottom weight and keel which keeps the lure balanced. For the stainless steel bib, Ian cuts out a simple circle of metal with a tongue attached to take a couple of screws. The circle of stainless steel is then pressed between a piece of softwood and the head of a round-head bolt, in the jaws of a vice, to give the desired concave shape. Stainless steel has the advant- age, for finicky types, of being both easy to work and polishing well. The Glasson lures are sprayed with automotive lacquer from a compressor spray gun. For most ama- teurs, the pressure-pack spray cans now sold (filled with fast-drying enamel) can be used to spray lure bodies through fly wire, to give the scale cfTect found In commercial lures. The ordinary coach dog (spotted or blotched) finish can be painted on with a fine brush. Ian advises that the most important step in preserving the painted body is a final dipping in clear lacquer or clear enamel.

Three types of plug-lures for the anglerhandyman: The easiest (Fig. A) is a shallow-diving floater which is made commercially in 1 in, lb in and 2 in sizes. For each plug you need a treble-hook, dowelling and a short piece of brass wire. The larger one piece plug (Fig. B) is fitted with a metal lip of diving vane. It can be made as a floater or ballasted with a sinker as a deep water lure. The other basic type of plug is the popular jointed lure (Fig C). The body is made in one piece and then it is sawn in two. The front section is slightly longer than the rear section.

In general, the best lures made are those which follow an extremely simple and functional design. Popular types of lures already on the market should be studied well first before they are imitated by the amateur -a knowledge of the general principles of lure engineering is essential. With experience, an amateur can arrive at the stage I've seen during my travels -a close inspection of a new type lure Is all these people need. To gain experience, beginners at the new craft are advised - strongly-to buy at least one lure of each style they wish to manufacture.

Some good general types are the banana-shaped Flatfish; Bellbrook in Midget, Sinker, and Swayback; Heddon's Crazy Crawler. For those anglers whose skills lie with metal, the Swimmerspoon and Sonar are ideal subjects. As well, anglers with access to redfin can build up snag-proofed jigs of many kinds - with less trouble that other lure makers. The Jigging lure, fitted with a single hook, has an extra advantage - a bait can be added, anytime.

Enough has been written about fly tying (by people who know more about It than the writer) for me not to bother with the art here: except to say it should not be neglected in a complete study of the subject. Rumors have It that some of the Monaro boys have been doing rather nicely just after dark, fishing the lake shorelines with oversize wet flies - a technique that works well on more fish than trout.

Let's look at some of the wobbling lures. One of Ian Glasson's products has a bean-shaped body two inches long. The double hooks are reversed (facing upwards) which helps a lot fishing round snags; as does the placing of the bib, or dipper. This Is screwed to the body of the lure about g inch from the front of the lure, and adds to the snag-proofing qualities. For strength, the forward hook is fastened to an eyelet passing through the tail of the bib, giving a double secure grip to that hook.

This type of lure

could be called a slow sinking type - the weight of the hardware overcomes the buoyancy of the wooden body, and the angler has to adjust his depth of retrieve by allowing the lure to sink. Since the dipper on this lure is almost at right angles, the lure will not dive deeply. However, snag-proofing is so good the angler feels safe enough letting it sink well down before retrieving. From the aspect of lure engineering, this lure can be altered in it's depth characteristics by altering the angle of the bib, as the further the big (dipper) is cent forwards, the deeper the lure will dive. However, it is here that a characteristic mistake is made by many commercial manufacturers.

If the bib projects straight forward on a deep diving lure, the line pull eyelet should not be screwed in the nose of the lure, or loss of wobbling action is the inevitable result. The line pull should fasten direct to the bib of the lure on any deep-diving model. The simplest method of achieving this is to drill a couple of holes (1/16 in) through the bib, after which a clip swivel is used to attach the line.

The point of interest to amateurs is that they can use a basic body design for several different types of lure. Pour different kinds of dipper will fit the angler with everything from surface lures to bottom Jumpers. As well, hooks can be altered according to your needs. Tf you're fishing open surf gutters for rlathead, you can use ordinary triples with complete confidence. For a snaggy, murky creek, reversed doubles or singles, or you may remove the central hook from the body without damaging the lure action.

The design

of the bib has much more bearing on the lure's working depth than the actual weight of the lure. I have all-metal lures which work on the surface, and lures which retrieve at deaths down to forty feet. These floating deep-divers" invariably feature a long or wide bib, and in the case of Heddon's Deep Six this is almost as long as the iure body.

For amateurs, a floating lure can be achieved only by hollowing out the lure body; a longer bib is no more trouble to make than a short one. As well, these same long bibs do a fair job of snag-proofing. Personally, I don't like the extremes in deep lures, unless they are worked in shallower water in a fashion that imitates the jigging action of some kind of waterlife diving at the bottom.

A little thought will show that a lure carved from solid plastic will wobble as freely in the water as one made from hollow plastic, if both bodies are the same size. The amount of water displaced is the same in each case. So the solid bodied lure must be stronger, and unlike wooden models it will not split when screws are tightened.

The extra weight is used by the angler when he wants a lure with the same wobbling characteristics as his regular models, which can be cast a greater distance. A good example is Arbogast's Hula Dancer, which is the smallest oz plastic plug available. A study of this model will yield any home maker a wealth of practical information.

Giving a talk at a fishing school at Hornsby earlier this year, I was surprised to hear that some of the anglers present have gone as far as making their own models of the Crazy Crawler. This had been done without going to the trouble of hinging the wobbling wings. Leaving the wings as a fixture reduces the casting characteristics slightly, but there are no other disadvantages. Lightweight lures of the simplest type are the poppers - floaters with a cupped head which pops noisily against the water pressure. These come in any size up to 4 in long.

The best home-made jointed lures

(swaybacks) I've seen were sent up by Chas Sheumack, a well-known sportsman from Binnaway. Chas had worked out the idea of attaching the line pull direct to the dipper himself- which is not any advertisement for the amount of research put in by some commercial makers. It's also an indication of what can be achieved when a thoughtful amateur starts working things out for himself. The swayback has both advantages and drawbacks.

On the credit side, the jointed body allows the fish greater freedom of movement on the end of the line, so that hooks are less likely to pull out. However, the jointed body means you have two additional stress points, where weakness in manufacture could leave the angler with half a lure and no fish. It's apparent that, in any lure, the longer the shank of the eyelets, the stronger the lure. In some cases, anglers compromise by bending the eye of the eyelet into a tighter circle in order to increase the length of the shank.

Some commercial makers use a full length line pull from one end of the lure to the other, but for the amateur it is difficult to drill his plastic or wooden body accurately with ordinary hand tools, so long shanked eyelets are preferable.

Two metal lures which lend themselves to home experimentation are the Swimmerspoon and Sonar. While the Swimmerspoon has an action so articulate that it resembles nothing found in water, fish certainly find it attractive. Shape and weighting are the important points.

Closetips showing the metal lip (Fig. B) and the wiring system (Fig. B) in plug lures. The best lips are of thin aluminium sheetsm Pieces cut from tobacco tins are all right but aluminium is lighter and rustless. The wiring is usually done with a length of 22-gauge brass wire and two treble hooks (No 6 for the 2 in plug and No 4 for the 2 1/2 in). Begin by twisting the bellyhook to one end of the u)ire, then push the free end up through the hole in the belly and out through the nose. Now pass the end back through the nose again and out the tail, leaving a loop. Thread on tail hook, then double wire back and out the nose.

It's not essential to follow the maker's trend with offset hooks, but experimentation may be needed to achieve the right balance in triples. Stainless steel or copper would be the best material to use, and balancing with carved wood or plastic insert is important only so far as balance Is concerned. No strain comes on" the insert at any stage of either cast or fish catching, so strength of attachment of the insert is not important.

With the Sonar, we come up against the kind ol know-how which Is not apparent to the naked eye - and which fooled the Asiatic imitators of sound lures. In front of the line pull on a sound lure, the weight must be greater than in the area behind the line pull. And in terms of area, the reverse must apply- the area in front of the line pull must be smaller than the area behind it. This is the combination which gives a strong wobble to a flat sided lure which has no apparent reason for wobbling. In making a scaled-up version of the Sonar. I drew the larger version on graph paper and used It as a pattern off which n steel sheet was copied. Holes were drilled in relatively similar locations for hooks and clip swivels, and lead was added as the frontal weight a strip at a time - fastened through a couple of lengthy rivets and the steel sheet. I checked the balance against the smaller model by comparing the angle at which the lure hung on the end of the fishing line.

When enough weight had been added so that the angle coincided with that of the store lure. I was in business. The reason for thus particular activity was a desire to have a noisy lure big enough to use trolling for Murray Cod. It's heavy enough to troll deep on the frontal adjustment, and on a suitably short line at that. In point of fact, most fishing visitors look a little bewildered when they examine it -few lures weigh half a pound. Will it work on the fish? That I can't tell until the Darling clears, which may be quite some time.

It would be quite easy for amateurs to build sound lures according to their own patterns-within the restrictions of balance mentioned above. The rear of the lure can be lightened either by making It narrower than the front or drilling it out and sealing the hollowed area with plastic and hardener. The front, in a lure made either of plastic or wood, should be weighed by drilling out a } Inch hole and adding sufficient lead - until the lure hangs nose down when suspended from the line. The line pull should be inserted just in front of the half-way mark on the upper body of the lure.

There are a few elementary points which need care, in the manufacture of any type of lure. The desire to balance the lure exactly may lead home makers to drill too many holes in the lure body which are in line with one another. Where possible, stagger these drillings to lessen your chances of splitting a wooden lure. All holes drilled should be slightly smaller in diameter than the threaded shanks of the eyelets or screws. And finally, for those neglected sportsmen who have thought of making their own spoons. Copper or brass or stainless steel, if in thin enough sheets, can be compressed relatively easy in a carpenter's vice.

Alternatively, by using a hammer and shaped punch over a steel mould, a rough finish can be had which can be further shaped with pliers. Any readers who have designed and made lures of their own are invited to send them to me for examination. IH send them back, if you want them back - but I've found a few of these lures so effective I'm unwilling to return them unless I'm told to do so!

Making Fishing Tackle as a hobby

Note: The sketches that illustrate this story tvere taken from "Making Fishing Tackle As A Hobby" by Harry Brotherton, published in Australia by Stanley Paul.

salmon flies - A selection of salmon flies available from the Nature, materials, instructions, facts and anything to make them

Wooden Fishing Lures


How to make

It's easy, cheap, and realy fun.

Lure-making basics

Making a fishing lure is easy, affordable, and fun. Below you can read the basics needed to make the lures. Plenty of detail is shown in the step-by-step instructions, but as long as you hit these four steps, you'll have a lure that works.

At First: Shape the lure body. You'll start with a purchased lure rough-out, a dowel rod, or some wooden scrap. Drill the pilot holes. Every lure has hardware eye screws, hooks counter weights, etc., and hardware requires pilot holes to keep the fishing lure from splitting in half. Paint the body. There are three ways demonstrated in this book to paint your lure, also acrylic and brushes, spray paint, and airbrush. Apply finishing touches. and put in the eyes, sign your name, put on the clear coat, and attach that hardwareand that's all it takes.

How to Making

Making process is easy, you don't need a shop full of tools, a barn full of paint, or a Ph.D. in science to create a fine wooden fishing lure.

By Color,Size and Species

Lure Types

Lures are categorized by the action they perform while in the water and being retrieved. There are four general types of lures also and wooden lures : surface, floating-diving, sinking, and keel-weighted.

Surface lures A surface lure floats and continues to float as it is retrieved.

Keel-weighted lures If you wish to make a lure that will resemble a real bait fish, realize that a flat board will not float on its edge. You need to add weights inside the belly to make it float (or sink) belly down.

The keel weights also affect the attitude of the lure in the water, i.e., you can make a lure run head-down or head-up or neutral simply by where you place the weights. A secondary use for the keel weight is in a lure you wish to retrieve very quickly—the keel weight will not allow the lure to turn over. In other words, it will remain belly down no matter how fast you bring it back.

Floating-diving tupe lures float while at rest and dive below the water surface when retrieved. This type of killer unit can have a diving lip or a cupped and angled face. The angle of the diving plane determines the depth to which the lure will descend. If the plane of the lip is nearly parallel to the lure, it will dive very deep. The wiggle attracts fish by both creating a sound-pulse or pressure wave and making the color pattern flash.

Heavier than water Sinking lures sink.This type of lure includes some wooden lures, as well as metal spoons and spinners. This type lures are effective when the fish are feeding at depth and most models have a sink-rate of about one foot per second.

Wood Material

Thanks to their density, workability, and a few other factors there are several types of wood that make better fishing lures include:dowel rods, SPF lumber and much more. For saltwater lures - Dense wood is the best choice because this material resist damage better. Fishing tackle for Freshwater game fish is not nearly as heavy as saltwater species.

For example: If you pick out the lightest wooden dowel in the bunch, it will be the easiest to work into a body suitable for most game fish. Because part of the shaping has already been done dowel rods are a useful option for lure wood.

Pre-shaped lure bodies is also other options, you can buy rough-shaped wooden bodies for lures from a tackle supplier and these need only be sanded. Scientific Edge Company offers unique wooden lures that are more effective than any other plastics.

Hardware for lures

There are literally thousands of different lure accoutrements, and every one of them will look useful to you. -regular screws,eye screws, and split rings, lots of washers, propellers, blades, and on and on. A good way to approach hardware is to decide what types of lures you really like, check over the videos and photographs, and decide what hardware you like the look or function of. You can buy various wires from the parts catalogue online for very little money,


Vintage & Modern wooden lures

compare to a modern wooden lure

The big difference in today's wooden lures is of course the finish. Old ones are all solid, single colored plugs. A few are two-toned kind of like an old car. The new ones, as the you know are amazing. They look like the real thing and produce great catches.

Wooden Popper Lures How to make

The Second Method: This wooden lure project starts with a purchased rough-out body that is already mostly shaped. Cut this body in half at an angle of about 60', producing two popper bodies. Select one to continue with. Draw a center line from the uncut tip to the furthest cut point, well do both at the same time by sanding with a curved sander.Try the drum end of a belt sander, If you do not have a belt sander, than make a homemade sanding stick with a sandpaper and dowel. You may also clamp the stick into a vise and use both hands to control the lure body. Make sure to reconnect your centerline from back to belly through the center of the face. You can check that the lure face is square to the length of the lure body using a carpenter's try square. After all the sanding,refresh the centerlines. Look at the lure centerlines from all around to visually check that they are correct.

It's a lot easier to erase a pencil line than to install your hardware all crooked and have to throw it away and start over. Visually check to see that they are symmetrical both fore and aft and up and down. When it all looks good, drill the holes using a brad-point drill bit. Select a bit to match the size of eye used. The eyes must symmetrical all around. This means looking at It from all angles. If anything is amiss it will quickly become obvious. Here is the hole for the counter weight.

The counter weight ensures the lure will float in the right attitude even as it is jerk-retrieved. The hole is drilled with the brad-point bit on the belly centerline and about as far back from the face as the eyes are. The next step is to drill in the pilot hole for the front eye screw. Locate this hole along the centerline of the face and one-third of the way up from the belly. Move to the tail and drill In the pilot hole for the rear hook screw eye with the same twist bit and use a countersink bit to chamfer the front pilot hole. This makes a nest for the cup washer that will be installed on the finished lure. Install the counterweight into the weight hole, making sure it Is below the belly's surface.

Now mix some 5-minute epoxy and fill the hole right over the counterweight.

You can use a common toothpick to do this.

Now,use a hair dryer to heat up the epoxy. This causes it to become more liquidy and fill the hole. The next step is to sarid off the epoxy dome lush with the lure's surface. You can use a coarse fingernail board to do it, because it is not aggressive to the wood, yet readily removes the excess epoxy. Now is the time to dry-fit the hardware. Can I find it convenient to use my prick punch handle to spin in the eye screws. When dry fitting hardware, always run your screws in nearly snug. Notice how the front cup washer sits nicely in its nest. Now remove all of the hardware. Give the lute a final sanding and wipe with a damp cloth. You can dampen a cloth with acetone to remove all vestiges of sanding dust.

Now, paint the entire wooden lure with flat-white primer/ base coat, and let it dry overnight. Use your gold spray paint to color the upper half of the lure body. By spraying straight onto the back, only the upper half of the lure will catch the paint. Here you can see how the gold goes just to the center of the lure side and fades toward the belly. This shading occurs by itself when you spray fishing lure from one direction.

Spray the upper half of the lure-face with the gold. As you look at the lure's face, aim the paint above the lure and let the edge of the spray fando the work and allow the paint to dry for about an hour. Wrap the lure with some scale netting and secure with your modified clothespins. Until we remove the netting, the clothespins will make a nice handle. Next: Spray green paint over the gold from straight above. Apply in a serin of short puffs hit the button and immediately release it. Do this from 18" away. As soon as you are done with the puff painting, remove the netting, carefully so you don't smear the fresh paint.

If you have dark paint too dose to the white belly centerline, you car correct this by puff painting the belly with more white. Make sure to be perpendicular to the belly surface and use a few puffs only.

If you wish to add an extra effect, you can puff the back, belly, or both with silver metallic paint.

Let the lure dry for at least an hour. The pa int will be dry to the touch but still "green", so handle with care. Mix some five-minute epoxy and place a drop in each eyehole. Use your prick punch to lift two eyes and place one into each eyehole. Give the signature two light puffs of dear finish, about lOminutes apart. Wait ten minutes. Apply light coats , from at least 18" to the lure at 20-minule intervals until it'sas shiny as you wish. Hang the lure to dry and cure for at least 24 hours. If you do not, you will have fingerprints imbedded forever into your lure. Always lay your hardware out to check the proper order of installation and save yourself some trouble. When you are satisfied everything is correct, install the hardware. Here is our finished lure. It's as nice as any and you had the pleasure of making it yourself. This particular lure is really effective on large mouth bass, and in the spring, Northern pike will attack it without mercy.

Diving minnow style lure - video Lessons

How to make: To make Floating-Diving Minnow style Lures g rab some scrap wood and your airbrush for this one. This lure is painted as a young large mouth bass. Because this lure represents a fingering, it is effective on most predator species including bass, Northern pike, and even on some large perch. Draw the long axis centerlines and hold the pencil between the index finger and the thumb. Place the pencil tip on the centerline mark, and place the middle finger against the edge of the wood. Without changing anything, simply trace around the lure. Use the lip to mark the mounting screw locations on the centerline. The lip goes on the belly side at the nose. If you choose a glue-in lip, cut the lip slot at this time with the band saw it is easy to keep everything squared up this way, but not if you wait.

You will need to draw in an eye line. Make this by connecting the center of the nose to the center of the tail with a ruled pencil line.

After carving the body, smooth it out with a coarse fingernail foam board. Notice the eye holes are shallow at the front and bottom. This is why you need to refresh them. It is now time to refresh those eye holes, making sure they are straight to the body. While you are at it, it might be good time to refresh yourself with a beverage of choice. The paint scheme can look like a large mouth bass, so load your airbrush with glimmer gold in the usual manner. Set the spray fan to a medium-width fan and shoot in the upper two-thirds of the body, leaving the belly white. The main reason to use lacquer paint is this: By the time you have painted the other side, the first side is already dry enough to repaint.

Acetone flashes

off that fast. And now give the body of the lure a second coat of the gold to produce a nice light but even tone. Load and mix a batch of transparent light green in the standard method. Adjust your spray fan to a medium to small fan and check it on the cardboard. Start by roughing in the irregular band along the lateral line and put a couple of horizontal bars through the eyeholes. Note that the side and eye marks are not critical as to shape, but they are the defining marks on a young bass. Give the lateral line a second coat, and also paint a dark narrow band down the center of the back. Thoroughly clean your airbrush and reload it with cover white in the standard 1:2 ratio. Set the spray fan to a medium-to-small line. Use the white to repaint the belly. Another defining feature of young bass is their snow-white belly. Lightly clean the cup out and load up some glimmer gold. Paint over the sides and back with a light coat. This step blends all of the colors together.

Creek Chub - Fishing Baits for Surf and Freshwater fishing

Creek Chub well-known baits made to stand up to the heavy weights, from floating poppers to trolling and crankbaits , these lures are sure to make for an exciting day on the beach or lake.

Ways to Make Fish Bait - Tips That Work

How to make Your Own Fishing Lures

One of the attractions of fly fishing is the creation of the lure, or fly, that catches the fish. It constitutes a sizeable percentage of the satisfaction gained in the practice of fly fishing. If you're not a fly fisherman you don't have to concede all that enjoyment to the long rodders. It's quite easy to make your own lures.

See below: how to make a few standard lure types - the spoon, the plug, and the tube lure.

How to make the plug lure

A 5 inch, straight cut section of dowel with red head and white body. No special carving or adornments.

It could really be that simple and started investigating the possibilities. That simple plug evenutally led to this article.

Nearly any design of plug or stick bait that is for sale you can make yourself. All that's needed are a dowel, some paint or nail polish, eye screws, split rings, hooks, epoxy, and some basic tools. Now that I've made one myself, you are already planning the next few generations of home made plugs.

A couple of things to remember are that the final product has to be heavy enough to be cast and the weak link is going to be the eye screws. If those eye screws aren't securely fastened, you're tight line will quickly go slack and the fish we'll be wearing your hook for awhile.

First step

Cut a dowel to the desire dimensions. Once cut, the dowel can be left as is. Alternatively, you can cut, whittle, or grind the wood into any shape you want. The Mini Dremel with its one thousand and one attachments was made for this kind of work. In my first effort at plug manufacture.

And don't even ask about painting. Sparkle glitter has come to mind.

Second step

Drill guide holes and attach the eye screws. I put a little epoxy in each hole before I put the screws in. I'm not sure whether this will improve their holding power or not, but it makes me feel better anyway.

Third step

Paint your lure. Nail polish works fine and its gloss is an added attraction, but paint will give you more color options. Spray painting and air brushing are further options if you're really ambitious and want a really nice looking lure. After the paint dries - a few coats of 5 minute epoxy or some kind of clear varnish.

The final steps

Attach split rings and hooks and you're ready to rumble.

How to make the Spoon

How do you think this wobbly, flashy lure got its monicker in the first place? The spoon lure is literally what its name implies. The curved and cupped shape of the spoon makes it wiggle through the water like a bait fish in distress. That telltale wiggle is nature's equivalent of the dinner bell for predatory fish. A bass, a spanish mackeral, or a striped bass see a flash of wobbly silver flicker before them and their itsy bitsy little brains conclude that food's on the table. Thus, the effectiveness of the spoon lures.

Do not rush to the kitchen and start pulling spoons willy nilly out of the silverware drawer. Your significant other may not approve. But if one or two have been accidentally dropped in the garbage disposal at some time, then you'll have a couple of candidates. Garage sales and flea markets ought to offer up more candidates at a few pennies apiece. Once you've selected your spoon the handle needs to be removed.

You can either bend the handle until it breaks or use hammer, chisel and anvil to separate the handle and spoon more cleanly. Next, the spoon needs to ground into shape. Using either a table top grinder, or a grinding stone attachment for your hand-held drill, grind off any protrusions or rough edges until you have a smooth oval shape. With a small drill bit capable of boring through hardened steel, drill a small hole in either end of the spoon.

Affix a split ring to each hole. Attach a barrel swivel to the broad end of the spoon and a hook to the narrow end. It is then up to you to paint it, stick on some lure tape, or leave it as is. With an investment of 10 minutes and a few pennies you'll have a working lure.
Don't limit the possibilities. The spoon handle can be fashioned into a lure, as can old dog tags, belt buckles and other discarded metal bits. You're going to start seeing potential lures everywhere once your mind gets clued in to the possibilities.

The Tube Lure

(or surge lure)

If the traditional red headed, white bodied lure represents anything in the sea I wish to be enlightened.
That most predators will attempt to eat anything that looks vulnerable and will fit into their mouths. If your house cat, which is a predator by the way, were big enough it would have eaten you by now. So goes with all the fishes that eat other fishes. If it looks like they can catch it, they'll try to eat it.

The tube lure, or surge lure as I've seen it called, fits with our theme of simplicity. It's ingredients include, surgical tubing, avaialble in your hardware store's plumbing department, a hook, and a swivel.

You don't need any more than this. Of course, you may adorn it.

If you use clear surgical tubing, you can fill the inside with colored tape, krystal flash, or whatever else flits through your imagination. Match the length of surgical tubing to cover the shank of your hook, put a split ring and swivel on the eye of the hook, then slip the tube over the assembly.

Twist some wire around the tube somewhere around the split ring and tighten it so everything stays in place. Now go fishing. If you're going to elaborate on the concept by using flash or tape attach that to the hook before sliding on the tube. These babies will work in saltwater and an fairly confident bass and other fresh water species will go for them as well.
Depending on what kind of line you'll be throwing you'll need to add weight accordingly. Split shot can be crimped on the shank of the hook, or, lead wire can be wound onto the hook.

Spinners and baitcasters shouldn't overlook the work done by fly fishers. The fundamental difference between fly fishing and spinning or baitcasting is that in fly fishing it is the weight of the line that delivers the attractant to the fish - in so called conventional fishing it is the weight of the attractant that pulls the line through the air. Any fly, if made weighty enough, could conceivably be used on a spinning rod. So you could tie flies for your conventional gear and share the fun of thread and feather.

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