How to Tie
a Fishing Hook
Tying Manual -
At First, Lay line and leader parallel,overlapping each other six
inches. Form a loop with the two lines, treting the two az a single
Pass end of line and entire leader through the the loop.Wet knot
and pull all
four ends uniformly to draw knot up and trim tag-ends.Cut the tags
ends and Tighten and Lubricate.
breaking strength:90-95%,the best knot especially for tippet&
leader with various nylons line in different sizes.
Sailor's strong SheetBend
The fact that the red makes a choke ring makes all the differance.
Now we want the strongest part of the red choke (not near it's free
end); to pinch directly on the least tensioned part of white, for
most positive trap. When you do this, you start the turn of the
red around the bight of the white, on the loose tail side, so it
makes a 360 degree circle around and subsequentally finishes on
the same side as free end of white too.
quick SheetBend Knot
Quick SheetBend & Lapp Knot
Prolly the favorite use for SheetBend would be
slipped in standard or roundturn form for quick and clean release
of tiedowns, line extensions etc. Pull to release.
When the ends in un-slipped form end up on the same side, SheetBend
is properly loaded for best security. As any other knot, replacing
the hitch ring with a full round turn immediately upgrades it easily
for security and sometimes strength.
Knots that incorporate a drawloop as a quick-release on often leave
fingers and fingernails with a final bit of untying. The Lapp knot
is pure escapism: tug the short endline and it falls apart. Unjustly
dismissed by some as a false sheetbend this knot has in fact been
known for at least a century.
A Square Knot is a fair, light duty joining of ends of a line. It
the Equal and Opposite force lines to directly oppose each other
(or makes Theif). Also, that the tails lock agianst each other (or
makes Granny). The lines must be the same size/type; and both loaded.The
diagram should make this clear, but do take care to finish with
the bitter ends of the two lines on the same side.
And pull it tight.
safety knot Bowline
Outdoor Boating and Paddling Knots
- animated and illustrated, Step by Step instruction knots
Our Fishing Knots Index include:
Line To Line Knots: Albright Special, Double Uni, Blood
Knot, Nail Knot, J Knot, Slim Beauty Knot, Yucatan Knot
Loop Knots: Surgeon’s End Loop,Rapala Knot,Perfection Loop,Non
Slip Loop Knot,Bimini Twist and Dropper Loop
Terminal/Hook Connections:Baja Knot, World’s Fair Knot, Uni
Knot, Trilene Knot, Traditional & Snell Knot, San Diego Jam
Knot, Palomar Knot, Orvis Knot, Offshore Swivel Knot, Knotless Knot,Clinch,Arbor
Knot, Eye Crosser Knot and Fishi-N-Fool Knot
Miscellaneous:Hook Removal, Drop Shot Rig and Egg Loop
The Tailknott - made in usa high quality effective knot tying tool,
(patented since the late 1800s) designed to produce simple and rapid
knots, in additional tying knots(Short Shanked Hook knot,Nail knot
loop, Laromar, DB looper, Larry's loop, Long tag dropper, Nail knot,
Backing knot, Shank tie, Nail knot slip sinker,Non-slip mono loop,
Trilene, Tailknot and much more). Ass well splice fishing line inc.
braided line. with the help of the Tailknott-tool anglers can quickly
learn to tie many
more knots quickly, and easily but more stronger importantly knots.
...this lightweight little knottool is a MUST HAVE for every
fly tackle box
published:Europes top Angling Magazines Beet 03 11
essential and useful for good basic fly-lure fishing:
published: Today's Fly Fisher magazine | June 2003
Form a loop in the tippet material and hold it in between your thumb
and forefinger. Ensure that it is large enough for the fly to pass
Thread the fly onto the tag end of the knot. The tag end is the
part which is going to be cut off when the knot is finished.
Take the tag end around the base of the initial loop and stop with
the line ending up parallel to the fly.
Move the tag end through 180 degrees in between the two loops. You
will have to release the pressure on the loops slightly to do this.
Slide the fly around the second loop and feed it through the first,
taking care to feed the fly and the dressing (any tails etc) fully
Form the knot by slowly pulling the main line stop at the point
just before the knot is completed.
Grab the tag end and apply some saliva to reduce friction in the
final stages of the knot formation.
Finish the knot by pulling both the tag end and the main line. Neatly
trim the tag end leaving the finished knot.
During step five you can choose the final loop size. Make it smaller
or larger here by adjusting the initial loop size via the main line
- it takes a bit of practise.
Double Overhand Loop-knot
This simple but effective loop is most commonly used to accommodate
a loop-to-loop hooklength. It can also be used to house a swivel
or weight, by simply slipping the loop through and over the swivel
Step One:Form a loop at the end of your line.
Step Two:Tie an overhand knot with the loop.
Step Three:Add another wrap to the knot.
Step Four:Close up the knot tightly and the loop is ready.
This knot is also used when joining a cast to a mainline.
"Knotting and Splicing"
Knots and Hitches - Lovely
This Demonstration Article has a large selection of knots is based on many
years of sailing
KNOTTING AND SPLICING
by Francis B.Cooke
Knotting and splicing are best learnt from practical demonstration,
and I strongly advise you to get some expert yachting friend or
a waterman to give you a few lessons. To describe how to make the
various knots and hitches commonly used by 8ailormen is by no means
an easy matter, whilst to illustrate them clearly is even more difficult.
I will in this chapter, however, endeavour to explain how the knots
more commonly used by yachtsmen are made.
Fig. 14 | Fig. 15
The Parts of a Rope.-To enable you to follow
the instructions I give for making the various knots and hitches,
it will be necessary for you to know what the different parts of
a rope are called. This you will gather from the accompanying diagram
(Fig. 14). In the following diagrams the rope's end is shown pointed
so that you may distinguish it from the standing part. Overhand
Knot.-You will see how to make this from the diagram (Fig.
15). It is of very little use by itself, but it forms the basis
of the reef knot.
Reef Knot.-This is simply one overhand
knot made over another (Fig. 16). You will notice that both
standing part and end pass through the bight the same way, otherwise
it would be what is commonly called a " granny." As you
will gather from its name, the reef knot is used for tying up the
reef points of a sail. Don't use it for joining two ropes together
as it is not reliable when thus employed, particularly if the ropes
happen to be of different sizes.
Fig. 16 | Fig. 17
Clove Hitch.-This is a most useful hitch,
as it can be employed for many purposes. The diagram above (Fig.
17) will show you how to make it. Note that when making the hitch
the end follows on, that is to say, it travels in the same direction
Fig. 18 | Fig. 19
Half Hitch.-The end of the rope is passed
round the standing part and brought up through the bight (Fig. 18).
Two Half Hitches.-Make a half hitch and repeat it (Fig. 19).
Two half hitches are often used for securing a dinghy painter to
a post, or making fast a rope to a ring.
Figure or Eight, or Flemish, Knot.-Pass the
end of the rope over and then under the standing part and bring
it down through the bight from above (Fig. 20). This knot is used
on the end of a headsail sheet to prevent it running out through
the fairlead when the yacht is in stays.
Fig. 20 | Fig. 21
Timber Hitch.-Take the end of the rope round
a spar, pass it under and over the standing part, and then take
several turns round its own part (Fig. 21). This can be used for
making the topsail halyard fast to the yard or for towing a spar.
Bowline.-Make a small bight, then pass the
end through same, then round the standing part from above and finally
back through the bight from below (Fig. 22). There is a quicker
way of making a bowline than this, but it is a knack which can only
Fig. 22 | Fig. 23 | Fig. 24
be learnt from demonstration. A bowline is one of the most useful
knots known to the sailorman and can be employed for many purposes.
It will not come adrift under any conditions and yet can always
be undone easily when desired. When you make fast your dinghy to
a ring on the causeway on a rising tide you should do so with a
very long bowline so that you can get at the knot to undo it should
you want the boat at high water when the ring is immersed.
Common Bend.-Make a bight in the end of one
rope and then pass the end of another through the bight, round both
parts, and tuck the end under its own part. This is commonly used
for bending two ropes together (Fig. 23).
Rolling Hitch.-This is used when you want
to attach a tail block to a rope, or if you require a hitch that
will not slip on a spar. Take a turn with the end of the rope round
the spar or rope to which you wish to hitch, bringing the end below
the standing part. Then take another turn above the first, jam-
ming it between the first turn and the standing part. Finish off
with a half hitch over all for the sake of security (Fig. 24).
Sheet Bend.-This is used for bending on the
spinnaker halyard or topsail sheet. It is very like a common bend
but the cringle of the sail takes the place of the bight, whilst
the rope is passed round twice instead of only once (Fig. 25).
Fig. 25 | Fig. 26
Fisherman's Bend-This is used for securing
the warp to a kedge. Pass the rope twice through the ring of the
anchor, then over the standing part, and finally through both the
turns on the anchor ring. For the sake of security finish off with
a half hitch round the standing part (Fig. 26).
Topsail Halyard Bend.-As its name implies,
this is used for securing the topsail halyard to the yard. Pass
the end of the halyard three times round the yard, then over the
standing part, down through all three turns, then over the last
two turns and under the third (Fig. 27).
To Make a Short Splice.-Unlay the rope ends
for about six inches and place them together so that the strands
interlock (Fig. 28). Now take a strand and pass it over the one
opposite to it and under the next (Fig. 29). Do the same with the
other strands until each has been dipped twice (Fig. 30). Then halve
the strands, i.e., cut away half the yarns, and dip once more.
Fig. 27 | Fig. 28
Fig. 29 | Fig. 30
Cut of! the ends and then roll the splice under your foot to smooth
down the work. When splicing rope the strands must be lifted with
a marline-spike, or better still, with a fid. A fid is a marline-spike
made of hard wood. It is nicer to work with than an iron spike and
does not damage the rope so much.
To Make an Eye Splice.-The principle involved
is just the same as in a short splice. Unlay the strands for about
six- inches and lay back the end of the rope on to the standing
part so as to form an eye of the desired size. Then take the middle
strand that you have unlaid and dip it beneath one of the laid-up
strands. Working from right to left, do the same with the next strand.
Then turn the rope over and pass the third strand under the remaining
laid-up strand. Dip each strand once more, then halve them and dip
To Make a Rope Grommet.-To make a grommet
such as is used for stropping a block, unlay a strand of rope, taking
care not to disturb the lay more than you can help. Then lay it
up again (Figs. 31 and 32). To finish it off, halve the strands
and tie an overhand knot. Then dip the ends, as in splicing, and
cut them off. When completed the grommet should have the appearance
of a neat rope ring, like a deck quoit. The length of strand to
unlay should be rather more than three times the circumference of
the finished grommet.
Fig. 31 | Fig. 32
To Make a Long Splice.-Should you carry away
a halyard or any other rope that has to render through a block,
the only practical method of repairing the damage is by means of
a long splice, which does not add to the thickness of the rope.
Unlay the strands about three times as far as you would for a short
splice and place the ends together so that the strands interlock.
Now unlay one strand still further, laying up in its place the opposite
strand. Do this with all the strands (Fig. 33).
Then halve the strands, tie an overhand knot with each pair, cut
out some more yarns and dip each strand once before cutting off
the superfluous ends. If neatly made the long splice will be almost
invisible, will render freely through the block, and will be as
strong as the rest of the rope.
Fig. 34 | Fig. 35
To Pass a Seizing.-A block or thimble is
secured in a rope by means of a seizing. Take a length of stout
tarred marline and make a small eye in the end with a timber hitch.
Pass it round one part of the rope that is to be operated upon,
and, threading the other end through the eye, haul taut. Then take
a number of neat turns round both parts of the rope, just below
the thimble or block, hauling each turn as tight as possible, using
the marline-spike as a lever. When the seizing is sufficiently wide,
put on another layer of turns, working back over the first lot.
The second layer of turns are called "riders" and lie
in the interstices of the first layer (Fig. 34). Then take a couple
of turns round the seizing between the two parts of the rope, and
finish off with a clove hitch (Fig. 35).
To Whip a Rope's End.-Rope ends are whipped
with seaming twine to prevent the strands unravelling. To do this,
take a length of twine about 18 inches long and lay about an inch
of one end along the rope-end, holding it in position with your
thumb whilst you lay 011 the first few turns of the whipping. Whip
towards the end of the rope and when you have put on about two-thirds
of the whipping, lay back the other end of the twine on the rope
and whip over it, passing the bight of twine over the rope-end each
tnrn. When you have put on sufficient turns, haul the end of the
twine taut and cut it off. The rope-end will then be neatly whipped
with both ends tucked under the whipping (Fig. 36).
To Make a Selvagee Strop. Drive two nails
into a stout plank at a distance apart determined by the size of
required. Then take a ball of spunyarn, or marline, and make the
end fast to one of the nails. Wind the spunyarn tightly round and
round the nails until a suitable thickness is obtained and then
seize the strop with spunyarn in five or six places. The strop must
then be covered either with canvas or leather. If you use canvas
the cover must be painted after it has been sewn on. If the strop
is covered with leather, wet the latter before sewing it on. Selvagee
strops are easily made, arc very neat, and quite strong (Fig. 37).
/by Francis B.Cooke/
Published: SEAMANSHIP FOR YACHTSMEN | London Edward Arnold
& CO. - 1923