Catalina's broad range of CRUISER & SPORT Series sailboats

CY-a New Generation Yachts and Boats

Manufacturing & Design

Catalina Yachts -

proven features with new ideas

Catalina Yachts Company founded in 1969 to be some of the largest yachts & sailboat builder in the US. All Boats are a good value for our customers in a very competitive market.Today Catalina Yachts having the biggest percentage of repeat customers in the boating industry and will continue to grow.

Catalina's broad range of Series boats include intelligently designed:

New Yachts:

Catalina 315

The new 315 Sailboat are designed with core attributes and All the best elements of the award-winning Catalina 445 and Catalina 355 and the Catalina 315 :sleek low profile cabin design, lead keels, , ergonomically correct cockpits that are optimized for efficiency, with great visibility from the helm, the classic warmth and good ambience on board and this is the kind of boat that people who love sailing will enjoy!

and Catalina 385

The New in the line of Catalina boats that evolved from successful design features and proportions of previous models, the New 385s moderate beam is carried well aft for a spacious cockpit, a new backstay system. Modest freeboard reduces windage and a beautiful hand rubbed finished teak interior brings it all home with classic, light and lively styling that has been a trademark of Catalina for over 40 years.


Ocean series - 3847 footers build for more serious offshore adventures (Catalina 385 and Catalina 445 )
Cruiser yachts - roomy mid-sizedboats from 2837 feet (Catalina 275 Sport, Catalina 315 and 355 )
Sport Yachts - 825 foot ( Catalina 12.5 Expo, Catalina 12.5 Expo, Catalina 14.2, Catalina 14.2 Expo, Catalina 16.5, Catalina 18, Catalina 22, Capri Catalina 22Sport, Catalina 250mkII wing keel and Catalina 250mkII water ballast )

SailBoats and features - designed by Catalina Yachts

The fiberglass hull liner goes all the way to the shear where it is bonded in place, creating an insulating air space which prevents condensation and makes a/c and heating more efficient.The hull liner is covered in solid, traditional teak or ash battens in most models.

The storage compartments under the berths and settees are sealed from the bilges to prevent water intrusion and bilge odor migration. All compartments are coated with gel coat to create an impervious, easy to clean surface.

Conduits are used extensively throughout for A.C. power, D.C. power, plumbing and refrigeration systems. All are separated and color-coded, per A.B.Y.C.

recommendations. Conduits are superior to cable ties, because wiring can be easily replaced or added. Conduits also offer superior chafe protection.

Keels (not shown) are cast of lead, with approximately 2% antimony added for hardness. This makes the keel less susceptible to damage. Lead keels provide greater stability than an equal volume cast iron keel, and are much easier to maintain because they will not rust. Keel bolts are 316 stainless steel for superior corrosion protection.

The deck liner is a one-piece molded fiberglass part that is bonded to the deck. This forms a textured finished surface that is attractive, durable and low maintenance.

Cabin sole panels are made from pressure-treated, rot- resistant plywood, with Catallna's proprietary high-pressure laminate, with an embossed grain texture for a slip-resistant surface.

Edges are all coated to prevent water absorption and the bottom surface is also laminate-covered fc to prevent warping. These sole I panels wear well and require no maintenance.

The stainless steel compression post takes the load of the mast through the deck, directly to the structural grid. This system relieves the deck of any compressive loading from the mast, just as a keel-stepped mast does, while eliminating leaks and reducing noise.

The mast wires pass through the compression post and are led through conduits to the electrical panel. Junction boxes or buss bars are provided for easy commissioning or decommissioning.

The sub-sole grid is a one-piece structure molded of biaxial and unidirectional fiberglass for strength and stiffness. The grid is filled with a high-density foam in the mast step and engine bed areas. The grid reinforces the hull in the keel area, and supports the mast, tanks and engine.

The deep bilge created by the keel sump allows water to collect in the deepest part of the hull without contaminating storage compartments.

the Catalina 27

It's debatable whether the Catalina 27 should be listed IMO too, it's not really seaworthy in her design, but has been listed Vigor's book as a pocket go-anywhere boat.

From the outset she was designed to be affordable (some have even said cheap) for weekend excursions, club racing and coastal cruising – offshore work was always outside of the design scope. Yet despite this - a few that have circumnavigated demonstrating that these vessels, with the right preparation and captain, these boats can be passage makers.

Tips: When I attempt to reef my mainsail, the grommet will not reach the gooseneck hook.

This is because there is a bolt in the mast that prevents the sail cars from falling out when it is lowered. Do you remove the bolt or is there another solution?

Get a dyneema soft shackle, one on the large side, and two stainless rings that are bigger than the grommet in your sail, preferably ones that don't have an obvious wimpy weld, something strong. Rig it so that the shackle is through the reefing grommet and holding the rings, one on each side of the sail. Would give you a couple extra inches to get onto the reefing hook on either side of the boom. Would that give you enough extra to make it?

Made and installed a set of retractable lazy jacks. Stowed along the side of the boom when not deployed.

1/4 double braid. Two lines 8'3" with eye splices on each end. Two lines 8'3" with eye splice on one end and spliced to 1 inch diameter 1/4 inch thick stainless steel ring. Two lines 11' with eye splice at one end and SS ring at other. All lengths are after splices are in place (10" additional is required for each splice). The first line noted above attaches to a pad eye under the boom at 2'9" and pass through the ring of the 8'3" line with the ring and then attaches to a pad eye under the boom at 5'6". The eye splice of the 8"3, line pass through the ring of the 11' line and then to a pad eye at 8'3". Then slip an additional ring on the 11" line and attach its eye splice to a pad eye under the boom at 11". Then when you want to hoist attach the flag halyard to the last ring installed in the 11" line and hoist away. To stow I installed another pad eye on the front of the mast in front of the goose neck and used it to contain a bungee cord which goes around the mast and through the aforementioned ring. I used 70' of line and had about 5' left over and 6 rings.

to find the source of the leak

We're trying to find the source of the leak, but it pools right near the strut bolts underneath this piece of wood. Are you thinking of cutting out a piece of the wood so we can see things better, and build a mound with fiberglass to divert water to bilge.

The area where the strut penetrates the hull is made thicker on the inside to better support the strut. This leaves an area just aft of the strut where water pools naturally since it can't continue its flow to the bilge. Not good since the pool freezes in Winter if the boat is stored in cold areas. I believe that condensation accumulates there even if there are no leaks.
I dried that area after the boat was hauled one year and faired the pool area with epoxy filled with bird shot (copper bbs). The area now drains to the main bilge. Problem solved!


21200 Victory Blvd.,

Woodland Hills, CA 91367
7200 Bryan Dairy Rd., Largo, FL 33777