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& Storage - Tools, materials and procedures
Winterizing,teach you the professional methods for preparing a boat for winter storage
Winterizing and products (review)
- "How to winterize" your Boat
Winterization Process is more than just taking care of the Favorite Boat it's very important maintenance, this process can be a scene once a year or multiple times(should be looked at as regular maintenance) per year and It depends
how you use the boat and your location. If the first time winterize your boat, set aside some extra time for the job.
If it is done professionally , very little work will be required
to get the vessel really ready for the salt or fresh water in the
Exp. Proper winterization More Extends the boat and engine life by protecting its parts and components from bad corrosion, clogging or freezing, and lying idle for long winter time.But makes all the difference as to whether your vessel comes through the cold winter months & cold season fit as the proverbial fiddle or demands minor/major boat repairs in the spring.
How to Winterization. Winterization includes addressing the filters and oil,hoses and belts.
Generator blocks(also they can be cracked due to winter icing ), valves and pistons, drive unit and engine, boat interior and exterior..or boat outboard exterior care & maintenance.
If you keep your vessel or boat on a lift, it too needs both to be ready for the cold season. Removing boat covers, greasing fittings and pulleys and repairing damage are all Important part of winterizing.
I well remember- ensure that the boat's fuel tank is full! If NOT you run the risk of condensation (need to prevent condensation in the tank) forming within the boat tank which can lead to clogging and tank corrosion. In short, a lot can go wrong on a boat during cold weather - Hot water boat tanks can burst. Also Winterization Work is so Important.
The following aspects that we think is a helpful to boat winterization.
See Guide to winterization:
At first Run the engine and Check the timing and basic motor operations.
The Second Step is: inspect or Drain the lower unit gear lube and
refill(while the old is still hot) with it manufacturer's recommended lube-gear
Next Step is to preserve both the fuel tank and the fuel with add.fuel stabilizer
for the upcoming seasons, winter and spring.Inspect the steering,throttle, and shift boat cables for wear and binding and apply anti-corrosion(anti rust lubricant) grease. Now Inspect the boat water pump housing,holes, and impeller,it
if necessary More to see pressure-check and lower-unit seals, Drain water from the block and/or use a quality marine grade antifreeze, this are engeneered to prevent not only freezing, but also rust and corrosion, Drain oil from the boat motor, replace the marine oil filter, Racor ot other, and refill with recommended mfs. oil
Note: On 4s troke engine models, change the oil filter and refill with recommended manufacturers 4 stroke oil.Replace water separator filter - Fuel/water separator filters should be checked often. Grease all steering cables,linkages and other fittings with grease - marine-grade and lnspect. Noe Fog the boat engine block,the cylinders, carburetors, and drain the the fuel lines, and Check all hoses, belts, and the general condition of
the engine, drive, and lower unit.
winterization - Fuel Tank and Stabilizer
When fuel is being stored for a long period the chemical structure
down and fuel in Boat Tanks gets old and and be a problem to use - it will burn inconsistently and clog up the boat motor, But you have option:Use Fuel Stabilizer or treat the fuel with a fuel stabilizer , other option is to Removing the fuel, but Leaving a fuel tank empty might be a problem for winter storage! - Most people opt for treating the fuel. Removing the fuel would mean getting all the fuel out of the tank and lines to leave the fuel tank empty. Leaving a fuel tank empty might or might not be a problem(depending it is made from and the material type),
condensation built up inside can build up in the tank GeneRally you must Leave the fuel tank filled with fuel, but treated!
If you plan on leaving your vessel for longlength of winter time.
Winterizing Boat Water Systems
Obviously, you must protect your boat water system require little
maintenance with some sort of anti freeze agent.If your Boat have
a portable water tank clean it with a bleach solution and best way
is to put it away for the coldest season of the year.Boat Sinks-
If it's plumbed to a through hull and you are storing your boat
on land, You must be sure the drain line is empty and the seacock.If
your boat store in the water most important to add antifreeze-Agent
to the drain line Water Systems and allow some antifreeze to drain
through to ensure that the drain line
Require more work for complex boat water systems,practice is to drain the water tank,add several liters of antifreeze agent so that it replaces all the water that remains in this w.system.Pump out from the freshwater tank and add antifreeze.Starting pump with the one farthest from the tank and working your way back until it comes out of every outlet. Remember if you have one holding tank, tank must be pumped. After it's pumped, add antifreeze to the head, sure it gets through all the head hoses and don't skimp on antifreeze agent.
Several non-toxic antifreeze products and brands are now available for winterizing your boat freshwater system. All winter time Leaving holding tank, even if there is antifreeze in it, that stuff sitting in isn't good idea.
at last - Don't forget to put antifreeze in the hot water heater, AC cooling loop , shower and any sea strainers in Water Systems.
Whether your boat is 10 or 80 feet,outboard or inboard, open or cabin-equipped, Winterize Projects is the perfect guide to keeping boat reliable safe, and running from season to season.
Winterizing a Boat Before the Big Freeze
Explaining how to Winterize a Boat during the fall break. Hopefully your million dollar boat will not look like this yacht caught in the freezing rain a few years back. Planning well ahead to winterize your boat and motor will save you a great deal of money, imagine having to winterize a frozen hard boat during a cold windy day of autumn.
Depending on the size of your boat, you will either have a professional company take care of it, or you will want to save the money and do it yourself. The size of the boat would dictate your willingness to take care of such a project.
Tips on Winterizing your Boat
Power wash Boat before Winterizing While it may look like a unwanted task to do at the end of a beautiful summer, winterizing your boat is the time to take care of those repairs you have been putting aside for so long.
Just think of all those times you had the pleasure of going out on the water with friends or family and just have a really nice afternoon. Now looking back on those times, don't you how it to your boat a little love and attention? OK, enough with all that sentimental stuff, here is my way of getting the job done before winter comes around.
1. A good scrub, from bow to stern, (here is a site for those of you that are still struggling with the boat terms) it is the perfect time to lift your boat out of the water and really give it a scrub, cleaning the barnacles, seaweed and other gunk that was stuck to the hull all summer long.
Here are the products I use to clean and wax my boat: Star brite Instant Boat Hull Cleaner and Meguiar's Flagship Premium Marine Wax, just two outstanding products that really does a great job on the boats hull.
Star brite Instant Boat Hull Cleaner-1 Gallon + Meguiar's Flagship
Premium Marine Wax - 32 oz.Buy from Amazon.com.
Guide To Winterizing
The 2015/2016 season has arrived when those in northern climates have to think about preparing their boats and trailers for winter 2016 storage. It is not a difficult task, but it is important if you want to avoid delays or expensive repairs before launching again next spring.
Protect Your Investment
It's time for some elbow grease. Before you cover your boat for winter storage, you'll want to protect the hull and upholstery, too. Start by thoroughly washing and waxing the boat. Numerous companies offer well working products to keep your fiberglass hull and deck shiny. Companies like Mothers (mothers.com) and other offer complete lines of boat wax, polish and metal polish, and Mothers has a black streak remover for fiberglass and metal surfaces. Meguiar's (meguiars.com) also offers fiberglass care products, including Color Restorer, Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover and several waxes and polishes.
Treat the vinyl next. Once again, you'll find a wealth of products designed to clean, protect and even restore vinyl upholstery, such as Star brite's Vinyl-Brite, Meguiar's Vinyl and Rubber Cleaner and Protectant, Mothers' Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner, and Mer-maid®'s Canvas and Vinyl Cleaner (mermaid.com).
Be careful what you use on vinyl. Note: Avoid abrasive and household cleaners unless specifically approved for vinyl surfaces.
Stabilize the Fuel
At first let's begin with the boat and, specifically, its fuel system. Fill the fuel tank and treat the fuel with a fuel stabilizer such as Gold Eagle's Sta-bil products (http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/sta-bil) or other Stabilizers.
Fuel Stabilizers are also available from virtually all engine manufacturers. These products are designed to prevent the formation of varnish in fuel tanks. Two products designed specifically to prevent water from accumulating at the bottom of your fuel tank (otherwise known as phase separation) in E10 ethanol-laced fuels are Star brite's StarTron (http://www.starbrite.com/).
If you store your boat in an enclosed area, be sure that it is well ventilated and leave enough room in the tank so that fuel doesn't expand on a hot day, overflow the tank and possibly cause a fire. Treating the fuel, particularly E10 fuels, is the most important thing you can do to ensure that your engine will run like a top next spring.
The Basics (Engine)
After adding your chosen fuel additive, start and run the engine for at least 15 minutes to thoroughly warm the block, circulate treated fuel through the engine system and flush the cooling system. Never run the engine without supplying cooling water, however, as overheating and water pump damage may occur. For engines used in brackish or salt water, flushing with products such as Salt-Away (http://www.saltawayproducts.com/) will help dislodge stubborn deposits and protect your rig.
For carbureted engines, disconnect the fuel line and run the fuel out of the engine. This is not necessary with EFI and DFI models, as these closed systems are less subject to fuel evaporation and the formation of gum and varnish. For many engines, just before shutting down (or as the engine dies), you'll want to spray fogging oil — one example is Yamaha's Stor-Rite , designed to protect internal engine parts (http://yamahaoutboards.com/ and click on “care-and-maintenance”) into the intake. Be careful what product you choose, however, as some are not suitable for DFI or EFI engines.
Make sure to change the oil in four-cycle engines. You'll also want to change fuel filters/water separators and check the power trim reservoir with the engine or drive in the down position. Lube all the zerk fittings, paying particular attention to sterndrive hinge pins, the gimbal ring and gimbal bearing. On outboards, be sure to grease the swivel bracket, steering ram and tilt tube. Store outboards with the steering ram extended.
The Water Out
Water that's trapped in cooling passages can freeze, expand and crack the metal, so it's important to drain all water. Outboard enginess will drain completely when stored in the upright position, but sterndrives require extra work. Check the block and exhaust manifolds for brass drain plugs and drain cocks. Drain cocks are often plugged with rust or crud and can be cleaned with a thin wire and be sure you open them up and get the water out. A closed cooling system can be protected from freeze damage with glycol-type antifreeze.
Change the gear oil in the sterndrive or outboard lower unit. Milky colored oil is an indication of a leaking gearcase, which should be repaired as soon as possible because gears and bearings exposed to moisture won't last long. If it's damaged, be sure to replace the fiber washer to prevent leaking.
Remove the prop and lube the propshaft to help prevent corrosion. A spare prop is useless if you can't get a damaged prop off. This is the time to check for tangled fishing line that could possibly cause seal damage.
Next, spray the exterior of the engine with a protective lubricant such as Boeshield (boeshield.com) or Mercury's Corrosion Guard (still being offered for sale). Avoid using lubricating spray around the belts on the front of sterndrives or the tops of outboards, however, as this may cause belts to slip. Slippage can cause severe damage to a four-stroke outboard with a belt-driven camshaft.
As needed, use touch-up paint on the engine and drive. Store outboards and sterndrive units in the full down position. This takes the tension off sterndrive bellows and will extend their service lives. It also prevents water from collecting in the lower unit that can freeze and crack the lower unit casting. Store the boat bow-high with the drain plug out so water can't collect inside the bilge.
Cover and Charge
Clean the battery terminals, then check the electrolyte levels and give all batteries a full charge. If possible, store the battery in a warm, dry place, such as the garage, which makes it easier to keep it charged during the off-season. Alternately, hook up one of the new smart chargers that automatically tops off charge levels.
Cover the boat. If you use a plastic cover or shrinkwrap the boat, be sure it is ventilated to prevent sweating and the formation of mold and mildew. Regardless of what kind of cover you use, however, be sure it is supported so snow or rain can't pool and cause problems.
Check the sacrificial anodes on the engine and hull and replace if they have eroded by approximately one-third.
Winterizing The Trailer
Winterizing doesn't stop only with the boat, you'll want to bed down your trailer, too. Check the trailer bunks: Have the uprights slipped. Do the bunk pads need replacing? Are rollers properly adjusted and spinning freely. Proper support on the trailer is critical for the long-term health of your hull. Improper adjustment can result in a deformed hull during the long storage season. You'll want to check the winch strap or cable and replace if frayed. This is also the time to tend to any suspension, brake system or trailer light issues. Be sure to inspect the master cylinder on the trailer coupler for signs of dirt, rust or water contamination.
Jack up the trailer and support the trailer frame on blocks. This takes the tension off of springs and tires. Spin the wheels. Are they quiet or do you hear a grating, growling or grinding sound? If so, pull the wheels and inspect the bearings. Replace as necessary. If you have bearing protectors, like those available from companies such as Air-Tight make sure they are properly filled.
With a little time and simple preparation, your boat and trailer should come through the winter without problems and you can rest easy, knowing that fitting out in the spring should go smoothly.
If you have a steel trailer, now is the time to break out the wire brush and hit the rust spots. Use a good primer before touching up with a rust-inhibiting paint, such as Rust-Oleum, (http://www.rustoleum.com/) in a color that matches your trailer.
E-Tec OUTBOARD Winterizing
Because Evinrude's (evinrude.com) E-Tec is unique with its self-winterizing feature, all you really have to do is run a fuel stabilizer through the boat's and engine's plumbing to protect from varnish deposits due to stale gasoline. Remove the prop for safety, and run the winterizing procedure that is explained in the owner's manual — it only takes a few minutes. Lube the propshaft while inspecting for fishing line, clean and wax the engine, and store it in the vertical position. No muss, no fuss.
Engine Winterizing Checklist
- 1. Remove spark plugs and fog cylinders if
- recommended by manufacturer for your model
- 2. Lightly lubricate starter gearing
- 3. Lightly lubricate shift and throttle linkages
- 4. Remove baffle and fog engine intake, if recommended in owner's manual
- 5. Four-stroke only: Change crankcase oil and filter
- 6. Lubricate tilt tube and steering ram. Store with steering ram extended
- 7. Lubricate tilt lock linkages and swivel bracket
- 8. Drain and replace gearcase oil; lube propshaft; check seal and fiber plug washers
- 1. Lightly grease shift and throttle linkages.
- Clean flame arrester
- 2. Drain crankcase oil and refill — OR —
- 3. Remove oil through oil pumpout
- 4. Change oil filter
- 5. Remove spark plugs and fog cylinders
- 6. Drain the large hose from the recirculating pumps. Drain the engine-mounted waterpump and all heat exchangers, such as the closed systems and power-steering oil coolers
- 7. Check power steering fluid and drive belts
- 8. Drain cylinder block, both port and starboard
- 9. Open manifold drain plugs or petcocks
- 10. Check trim fluid levels
- 11. Lubricate engine coupler
- 12. Lubricate hinge pin
- 13. Drain and replace gearcase oil, lube propshaft; check seal and fiber plug washers
Yachticon Winter wax
Is there now wax for every season? No, this is not way. If a surface specific protection and at the same time to get a nice shine, it engages a wax. It is irrelevant whether is it a boat, a yacht, caravan or other surface.
Connects the applied layer of wax with the ground and is usually after Polishing transparent and gives the desired gloss. Thus, impurities can be difficult to adhere, as a hard good wax layer is the best protection against the various Weather.
The Yachticon Winter wax are varied, from on natural waxes
based products to synthetic products and mixed forms, with or without
Polishing body. Have one thing in common these funds in the processing, it should always only small surface sections are processed. The wax is applied thin and equal polished when the wax has dried. Then you can the next Small surface turn. This is different in the winter wax Yachticon. It is perfect for winter storage, apply in the fall and in the spring to a high gloss polish. Can after long service life and even in cold temperatures well be polished. Optimal protection for all plastics, metals and paints. It is Easy to use and suitable for hand and machine application. Winter wax contains no Abrasive additive. To learn more visit:www.yachticon.de.
Preventing mold and mildew
The trick to preventing mold and mildew is proper ventilation, and that means moving air through (in and out, not just around the inside of) the boat. Moisture not only makes things soggy, but it also promotes the growth of airborne microbes.
If mold and mildew invade your boat, there are a couple of remedies. One is to scrub and then thoroughly rinse the hard surfaces with a mixture of 3/4-cup of bleach per gallon of water, or a commercial product such as Tilex Mold and Mildew Remover. Launder affected upholstery or curtain material, closely following the manufacturer's directions for cleaning the fabric.
Another method is to hang Star brite (starbrite.com) MDG Mildew Control Bags in the enclosed spaces.
This is a formaldehyde-free formula that kills existing mildew, mold and fungus and prevents future growth. Each bag is sufficient for 1000 cubic feet of space and reportedly lasts for three months. According to the Star brite company, it is harmless to humans,dogs and pets.
Controlling condensation will save time and aggravation because you won't have to clean up the mess it causes. There are a number of ways to combat condensation. Some methods are downright cheap, while others cost a bit more, but any effort to contain condensation will be worth it in the long run.
Always follow winterizing directions in your boat and specific motor owner's manual. Always use manufacturer's recommended lubricants. The recommended procedures and maintenance points on your unit may vary significantly from what is shown here and damage is possible if you don't adhere to manufacturers' directions.
Diagnose or prevent moisture problems: How to Prevent Mold During Winter Storage, tips & advice.